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San Juan Del Sur, a water taxi to Majagual, and a bottle of suave vodka...


Eagerly awaiting the arrival of our boat taxi on the shores of San Juan Del Sur.


On our final full day in San Juan Del Sur, we decided it was time to get out there and actually swim in the pacific. We didn't want to swim at the actual San Juan Del Sur beach, because it was fairly oily looking from all the moored boats, the sewerage from the town was outlet right into the middle of the bay, and on top of that all the local dogs appeared to use the beach as their toilet. So we booked a water taxi to take us to one of the less accessible northern beaches: Majagual. We packed a picnic lunch, farewelled our awesome villa, and wandered down to the beachfront to catch the boat.


Looking back at SJDS from the boat


The boat was a canopied number with an outboard motor which would probably have seated twelve comfortably. Boarding the vessel was novel experience; we all donned lifejackets and the two guys brought the boat into the sand by catching waves in. When it was knee deep we waded up and hopped into the boat, which then chugged merrily out of the bay and into the rolling deep waters.

Kaleb and his hermit crab collection


It was a beautiful day, the ocean was clear, and our two jovial drivers were fishing using handreels from the back of the boat. We motored past several beautiful beaches and clifflines, dotted with houses, jungle, and the occasional brainteaser of a landslide where all the trees sloped at impossible angles and the earth was at a forty five degree incline. The rock formations were also beautiful - it was just my kind of coastline really, reminiscent of the south coast of New South Wales or Western Australia. So much more eyecatching than those long expanses of sandy nothing they call beaches in Perth!

Jeez, that's a lot of crabs!


We came to a fabulous rock formation that looked quite a bit like a large ship smashing up against some rocks, and turned into the cove. The beach we were heading towards was lined with palm trees and had some lovely imposing cliffs and a smattering of shade under some trees and rockfaces. Landing was novel - Majagual is reputed for being a good spot for novice surfers so our two resourceful water taxi drivers looked out for the best wave and we surfed into shore, with one guy at the front to ensure we rode the wave in the whole way. It was awesome. When we were safely on the sand they told us they'd be back at four to collect us and waited for a calm patch to pull the boat back out.

Interesting rock formation


The beach was a long, gently curving cove with greyish sand (a side affect of living in a volcanic country, although the sand was distinctly whiter than at, say, Ometepe) and the beginnings of either a gated community or hotel beyond the fringe of palms. A large yellow wall and some bizarro turrets had been erected, there were some palm frond pergolas in front of this and then signs in front of these sternly warning of private property. There were also a collection of happy workers playing baseball on the beach.

A pre-dinner drink to reduce the sunburn


We ignored the signs and headed for the shade of a pergola. The beach was alive with hermit crabs - there were hundreds of the little things and they were just so cute and uncoordinated, scuttling over the sand in oversized shells. Dave and Kaleb decided to race them, and so dug a large arena to hold them all. Leah and I went for a swim and a sunbake while the boys collected over seventy hermit crabs in preparation for the big event.

It's an awful lot of vodka, but we're up to the challenge...


Sadly, the big event never came. A nice man with a large AK came and politely informed us that the pergolas were, in fact, private property and asked us to move along. We have a personal rule not to argue with gentlemen holding Russian weaponry, so we picked up our things and moved down the beach to under a shady tree. The shady tree was very pleasant, but had wickedly evil thorns jutting off it and Leah and I promptly stood on some and got them stuck in our feet.

Getting into the margaritas


We spent the remainder of the day lazing, reading, and swimming. The waves were surprisingly big, although tended to break a little quickly for ideal body surfing conditions. It was great fun though, and very relaxing. Before the boat came back dave took a walk along the cliffs out to the point, and apparently the rock formations and sea animals were great.

What's not to like?


The boat returned just after four, and we packed up and hopped in. The surf had picked up and the guys valiantly got the boat out of the beach, but we went straight up and down a couple of big breakers before making it out into the sea. It was great fun, and other than that the return trip was uneventful, aside from the beginnings of a glorious sunset in the making.

"You there! Give me your dinner!" (one of the local cats begging from Dave)


When we arrived back in San Juan Del Sur we walked up to the hotel to get the key to our new - and last - room. We were driven up by a driver because we were in one of the newer villas at the top of the hill. It was absolutely beautiful, with two bathrooms and a master bedroom with a balcony, a fitted out kitchen, and a large living space. We even had a fountain at the front.

"Think you can ignore me, do you?"


We decided because it was our final night on holiday that we would splurge at the hotel restaurant for dinner. However, Leah and I both still had splinters from the tree, so we downed some vodkas as anesthetic and handed Dave the tweezers. He did an excellent job, and we got ready to hit the restaurant - with a driver taking us down the hill, of course. The food was fabulous, and all in all it was a most satisfactory ending to our holiday.

Early morning swim...


The following morning (Sunday), we all went to the pool early. We breakfasted, called our driver to check us out of reception, and met our other driver to take us back on the two hour trip to Granada. Our holiday inside a holiday was over.

Introducing Hilary Duff at Pelican Eyes...

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